Pastrami isn’t just a lunchtime affair at Smoked and Stacked, the unpretentious sandwich joint from “Top Chef” alum Marjorie Meek-Bradley. The New Yorker ($8), a breakfast sandwich with pastrami, Comte cheese, sweet-and-spicy pepper jelly and an egg, is a glorious, squishy mess that cannot be contained within its soft milk-bread bun — as soon as you pick it up, you’re guaranteed to have yolk running down your fingers. Try one on a slow day, because you might need a nap to recover. (And if you want something smaller, go for the cured-salmon-and-avocado sandwich, or the basic bacon, egg and cheese.) — Maura Judkis

1239 Ninth St. NW. 202-465-4822. Breakfast served daily until 11 a.m.